Friday, 26 June 2015

Pitti 88 report

Pitti number 88 is over. What was new ? I don't want to report you about the trends and the fashion, as you should have plenty of comments and reports on the web and for sure from more competent people than me.
What I can say ? More and more I see a disconnection between the business timing and the communication timing. Until Pitti was a trade show, we were showing our collection to retailers and they were prepared to see and buy goods 6 months ahead they arrive in the stores. 
Now, as the Pitti is a public event, all the news are immediately on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter...people are calling the factories asking where they can find the item they see today on the newspaper, on the FB page..and when the answer is like "sorry, this is something will be available next Spring", the comment is like "are you kidding ?".
The "Pitti wall" just outside the main entrance of Padiglione Centrale is more and more full of people, staying there to "catch" pictures, another sign that the show is moving towards the final consumer directly.
Retailers are no more placing orders during the trade show, but just coming to see the news and then working on the collection later in the season (everybody want to see the final numbers of the season before buying for the new one).
This way the Companies are working more and more on urgent deliveries. To avoid production problems most of the producers are reducing the collection in order to have less references and concentrate the production's lots.

I saw once again a lot of people around without socks...of course I didn't like this trend. I have a family to feed basically.

..and now, after the Milan and Paris fashion weeks, the business is heading to NY for MRKet show.
See you there ?

Pitti event in Piazza Santa Croce



Saturday, 6 June 2015

Stylist, product manager, marketing director...who is the king ?

As a Company we are not only producing our Bresciani brand, but we have production's partnership with a lot of the best brands and stylists. 
This allow us to have an overview on "what's going on" and on how the market is moving.
You maybe already know that big Companies have several key positions : the stylist, the product manager, the marketing director, the sales director..
You may be curious to know who is really taking the last decision about "what will be in the next collection". Actually there is not a standard, but our impression is that things are changing.
Everything is starting from the idea of the head of style, but not all the ideas complete their path and see the light.
The first step is to test if the items are technically achievable. Believe me, this is an extremely difficult and important point. Usually this work it's up to the Companies producing.
Then the final prototype is going trough the test of the product manager who decide if the item is technically perfect and it is possible to put it on sale.
But the marketing director has then to decide if the item is in line with the image of the Company, how much will cost to put it in the collection and forecasting the sales' result.
The ball is then in the field of the sales' people.
But who is really deciding at the end ?
My personal opinion it is that, due to the world financial and economic crisis, the key point driving these decisions is the cost/benefit calculation.
More and more an item is going in sale not because is beautiful and technically perfect, but because has more opportunities to be sold.
Developing new styles is extremely expensive, consequently, to reduce the costs, the collections are smaller and only few pieces are made "only for the show". Mostly of the items have to repay the cost the brand had to develop them.
Only few brands in the world don't have this problems, because their strong financial situation allows to invest a lot of money in research and development. 
All the others have to move very very carefully today.
So, at the end, the key decision is more and more in the hands of the marketing manager, who has to forecast the cost/benefit result before all the process start...

Have a nice week end